June 7, 2007

Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2007 14:59:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Days #3 and #4 in Praha: June 7 and June 8...

Dobry den again,

Backtracking a bit:

June 5 was a full active day of sightseeing in Prague.
June 6 was a "nothing day" -- only dinner.

And...

June 7 was again a full active day of sightseeing in Prague.
June 8 was again a "nothing day" -- only dinner.

Ok, June 7....

I wanted to make up for the 6th. I left early, taking a tram to Malostranske
Namesti (Namesti = "Square"), then walking up to Prague Castle, the #1
attraction in the city -- supposedly.

The castle is up on a hill overlooking the city, and there are (as far as I
know) three ways to get up there: the "New Castle Steps", the "Old Castle
Steps", and walking up the Castle Terrace gardens.. I thought I'd go up the New
Castle Steps then down the Terrace gardens.

Note to myself for my own future trips to Prague: Dont go up the New Castle
Steps.

This was probably the worst way of all -- it is the steepest climb, and there
are no (or very little) views of the city as you're climbing. Comparitevely the
Old Castle Steps are a slightly longer but less steep -- still no views... but
the Terrace Gardens are *THE* way to go up and also come down...

Hmm, more on that later.

After reaching the top I took a guided tour -- which includes the Old Royal
Palace and St George Basilica (and unguided on the Golden Lane and Daliborka
Tower).

I was honestly not that impressed with any of the above! The Royal Palace is
interesting for its architecture (sandstone gothic ceilings), but its not all
that "beautiful" -- I expect anything named "palace" to be full of luxuries,
gold, ivory etc... There was none of that. Yes it was fine from an
architectural (and historical) point of view, but nothing more... not even any
city views below!

Same with St George's Basilica: It dates from 921 AD, and the "beautiful
16-century paintings" in there that my tourbook talks about are badly damaged
and simply worn out in many places! But again, its interesting
architecturally... nothing more.

The guided tour included the above two places, and I had a ticket for Golden
Lane (so called because all the houses in this street were once owned by
goldsmiths) and Daliborka Tower, a medieval prison/torture chamber. Before that
was "meat goulas in a bread boat", a sprite and profiteroles (cream puffs) for
lunch. Then a visit to St Vitus cathedral, which *IS* fantastic!

Again, about 600 years old (everything seems to be that age), but this one was
built in stages over several centuries. Its a gothic cathedral with huge
stained glass windows all around it (reminded me of St Chapelle cathedral in
Paris). And of course it's got the "standard view from the top" -- after
climbing some 300 steps on a spiral stone staircase. My feet were already
killing me, but this climb is well worth it! The views of the city from up
there are the best views of Prague!

After walking down I strolled over to Golden Lane (not much except all the
houses are a different color so it looks pretty, but nothing like Brasov or
Brugge or St Gilgen). At the end of Golden Lane is Daliborka Tower, which
thankfully I did not have to climb as the name suggested -- I couldn't do
anymore climbing today! Just one flight of stairs down is the old prison that
used to be there. Now they show all the torture devices used in the prison.

After that was the walk back down. I went to the Terrace Gardens and started
going down -- great views of the city from here too -- but a couple of
"terraces" lower, a gate was locked for some private function underneath. So I
had to make my way back up again, and go down the Old Castle Steps which lead
straight to the Metro station!

mmmmmmm... wonderful Metro station that lead back to my oh-so-comfortable bed
and pillows! :)

Dinner later that night was in Wenceslas Square, close to last night's italian
place.. oh yeah and nice pastries over there too! :>