Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 10:11:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Yes Virginia, there really is a Santa Claus... (but who's Virginia?)

Prego,

My original intention today was to drive down to the tip of Italy's heel, then
drive up the coast to Bari.

I just drove up the (other) coast to Bari and have been here all day today.

The Jetlag Gods woke me up at 4am again, and instead of trying to go back to
sleep, I started researching attractions in Bari. Bari is home to the remains
of Saint Nicholas, stolen from Turkey around 1000 years ago and now interred at
a church over here. So I thought rather than spend another day driving along
the coast (which, by the way, is specifically mentioned in one of the webpages
I saw as an excellent drive), I decided to go with the spirit of the season and
pay my respects the original Santa Claus!

I did not know his story -- I read it all on the web this morning! He was born
around 350 A.D. into nobility and decided to give away all of his ancestors'
fortunes to help the poor. One of the webpages also mentioned that the
tradition of "stocking stuffers" at christmastime was originated by Jolly ole
Saint Nick throwing bags of gold into the windows of three women too poor to
pay their dowries, and the bags landed in their stockings that were hung up to
dry -- by the fire.

Don't know how much of that is actually true, but it was an interesting story
anyway! I decided to check him out.

I left Cosenza after a big breakfast at the hotel. [Side note: That has been my
only meal so far today -- on purpose. Tonight, I feast! There's a ristorante
next door to where I'm staying, and its supposed to open at 7:30 pm. I checked
out their prices on the menu outside and its well within my budget for my first
real Italian meal of this trip!]

Anyway, boys and girls... back to the Santa Claus story..

The drive from Cosenza to Bari (the way I went) was first through some
mountains for about 40km, and then along the coast for about 100km, and finally
inland again through farmlands for another roughly 50km. The coastal part
(where the bottom of the shoe comes up) is similar to the west coast of U.S.
again -- including the road itself. Hwy 101 through Oregon.... (so many places
here have reminded me so much of back home its beginning to frighten me!) There
are also a few castles here along the hilltops and next to the coast, and those
are always a treat. But all in all, yesterday's drive was more scenic than
today's. And I'll leave it at that.

After checking in to my hotel (10th floor with a great view of the city), I
started driving towards the city center. Bari was originally settled during the
Roman era, and until the 1950's it has a been fairly quiet place. Then from
1950s-1970s there was a population explosion and the city grew rapidly to
basically where I am staying right now. (That's the history lesson of the day.)

The old town is where "everything is at". After parking my car (4pm) I set out
on foot into the old city. A reminder of Venice, except without the water! The
street width is about the same as in Venice. I was looking for Santa Claus --
"Basilica di San Nicola" -- and I got so hopelessly (and wonderfully) lost in
the maize of the streets that I never found him!!!

I did see several churches and the cathedral. I don't know if I saw THE church
that is the permanent home of Saint Nicholas. I may have. I'll never know. So
until I meet him in person, Santa Claus will have to stay a legend.... ;-)

Now I'm back to the hotel -- and quite proud that I made it back here without
making any wrong turns even when there were no street signs. Maybe I'll write
something about that later -- driving in Italy, or Europe in general. Now I'm
waiting for this ristorante to open...

AND ITS ABOUT TIME I HAD A REAL ITALIAN MEAL!!!! :-D

So... now I have a question: In Germany, "bitte" technically means you're
welcome but it used in almost all situations like "hello", "thanks", "hey whats
up?" .... The same goes for the word "prego" in Italian... WHY IS THAT? I dont
know whether I'm supposed to say buon giorno/buona sera or prego or even ciao
sometimes... And I feel kind of funny saying the word "prego". My "buon giorno"
is almost never the right pronounciation, and "buona sera" only fits during the
evening. I guess I'll stick with ciao.

Ciao.

Drive from Cosenza to Bari:

Old Town Bari:

December 28, 2005: Back to Napoli and Roma
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