Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2005 09:41:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: mi amo Italia

Buon giorno again,

By now you've probably seen the December 25th pictures. So you have an idea
what I'm going to write about.

First, some introductions:
http://www.callmewanderer.com/europe/eur0506/fullsize/dec2505/wstcst2.jpg

That's Positano. "Buon giorno, Positano." If you want to go from one of those
higher buildings down to the beach, you walk down several hundred stone steps.
That's difficult enough for the knees, but walking BACK UP is not for the likes
of me! My hotel was one of the cream-colored buildings, but I cannot make out
which one.

http://www.callmewanderer.com/europe/eur0506/fullsize/dec2505/wstcst15.jpg

Vettica Maggiore. About half-way between Positano and Amalfi.

http://www.callmewanderer.com/europe/eur0506/fullsize/dec2505/wstcst32.jpg

Salerno. The end of the "Amalfi coast".

Not to take anything away from the Amalfi coast -- it IS gorgeous and
everything you've ever read about how gorgeous it is -- that's all true, but it
was the drive after Salerno that I loved!

I guess I was just in the mood to drive through some mountains during a light
drizzle while listening to Italian and English christmas songs on the radio...
along with U2's "With or Without You" at one point. I did not follow the
coastal route at first. Well, I actually started out following the coast, but
at Agropoli I accidentally made a left turn where I was not supposed to, and
decided what the hell, might as well follow this road. Or maybe my thoughts
were more like "There's no way on Earth I'm gonna make a U-turn over HERE".
Whatever, I'm glad I did what I did. I ended up on SS18 -- through "Parco
Nazional del Cilento e Vallo di Diano". Fantastic mountain road, made all the
more beautiful by the environment. Low clouds, some areas of fog, mixed in with
light drizzle, and very few crazy Italian drivers on the road on this Christmas
morning!

[To those of you who are thinking what I think you're thinking: Yes, even
crazier than me.]

Take a look at this picture:
http://www.callmewanderer.com/europe/eur0506/fullsize/dec2505/wstcst36.jpg

That is taken a little past the town of Futani. As soon as I saw that, I wanted
to stop -- I *NEEDED* to stop. So I stopped, as many Italians do, right there
on the road. Not on any shoulder, but on the road itself. "When in Rome, do as
the Romans do..." A few cars drove by but I dont think anybody bothered.. heh.
I took the next four pictures there, up to wstcst40.jpg.

Soon after that was the coastline. From the town of Policastro to Sapri and
then south through Praia a Mare, Diamante, and Paola... all coastal road. A
couple old forts (wstcst46.jpg) sprinkled here and there along the
mountaintops, but mostly it was lovely oceanside scenery.

I think this picture in the rear-view mirror is of Buonvicino, near the town of
Diamante: (but I'm not sure)
http://www.callmewanderer.com/europe/eur0506/fullsize/dec2505/wstcst59.jpg

Now I am in Cosenza, a little bit inland and near the top of Italy's "foot".
This place has room service -- I just had a sandwich for 12 euros. Hey, better
than starving! But that's the same story on Christmas day every year for the
last four years! I'm looking forward to my first REAL Italian meal tomorrow,
when the restaurants all reopen. At least, I HOPE the restaurants all reopen. I
cannot eat another breadstick or banana!!

Tomorrow's scheduled itinerary is to drive around the "toes" in Reggio di
Calabria -- maybe buy some vino there -- and come back to Cosenza. Day after
tomorrow it's off to the "heel"!!!

Of course, everything is subject to change on any whim!

Ciao... buona sera.

(Who am I kidding... that's no "maybe" above!)

Positano to Salerno:

Salerno to Paola:

December 26, 2005: "The Boot"
Table of Contents