December 20, 2003

Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 09:18:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Sometimes a gamble pays off BIG....

Bonsoir,

This morning it was drizzling freezing rain in Munich, with temperatures in the range of -5 to +1 C. So things were not looking that good weather-wise. But for no logical reason whatsoever, i decided to go the scenic route across the Alps anyway. It was supposed to be snowing in Innsbruck.

The route -- from Munich to Innsbruck... and then crossing the mighty Alps from Innsbruck to Verona, Italy... and then Verona to Genoa... and then along the Mediterranean from Genoa to Monte Carlo and finally Nice in the French Riviera.... --- is one of the most scenic set of roads that i've ever driven on!

Of course, the weather gods helped... soon after I got out of Munich, the skies cleared! no freezing rain. no snow. no blizzard. just beautiful blue skies with patchy clouds! A few people had told me earlier that the train ride from Innsbruck down into Italy is gorgeous -- now i know what they meant! the road parallels the train track most of the way, and i said this before but i'll say it again -- it's one of the most scenic mountain roads i've ever been on! Ranks right up there with Banff Nat'l Park or a few roads in Switzerland or Colorado. I did not take too many pictures - partially because i was enjoying the drive so much. I think the Italian side is prettier than the Austrian side, but that's just my own opinion.

Anyway, descending towards Verona, there are a lot of vineyards next to the highway... those were nice too. I didn't stop anywhere though. Also I didn't actually enter Verona city limits, so did not meet up with the Montagues or the Capulets or the two gentlemen of Verona.

From Verona to Genoa it's pretty much flat road with a lot of vineyards... some of it was foggy today.

Then from Genoa to Nice is SPECTACULAR! i really should go back there again... the road goes right along the Mediterranean (and by the by, the temperature here was a pleasant 60 F). There are also a lot of tunnels - my estimate: about 2 km worth of tunnels for every 5 km of road. And this streches for more than 200 km to the France border and beyond. All along the sea on the left with mountain cliffs on the right, and of course nice little villages perched somewhere in between! Lot of red rooftops that really stood out against the mountains....

Quick drive through Monte Carlo - it was starting to get dark and the sun was in my eye (going West), so i didn't feel like stopping anywhere. It's a nice town/principality/country though. I should have taken a picture of the freeway exit - probably the only place in the world where a freeway exit lists a country ... "MONACO --->"

Now I'm in Nice... the main shopping street is lit up with christmas lights, and i've been told by the hotel receptionist that there are a lot of pickpockets around. Ehh... take the good with the bad i guess. so i didn't bring my camera here either. No pictures of Nice - you'll have to come here and see for yourself!! :)

So ... for those of you who knew I was going to Monte Carlo today and then read my subject line in this email, NO i did not go gambling in Monte Carlo. i did take a big gamble on choosing the route this morning and it turned out wonderfully! This whole area definitely deserves another visit/drive. I think on my next trip to Europe i might drive from Valencia, Spain up to Barcelona and around southern France and into Italy -- all along the Mediterranean coast. the road even goes south at least up to Naples/Sorrento where i had been a year ago...

almost exactly a year ago... wow...

oh.. i also learned today that "caldo" in italian means "hot" -- or at least something similar. i had stopped at a rest area and ordered a panini for lunch. the lady behind the counter didn't speak english, and i of course only know 3-4 words in italian. She kept asking me "Caldo? Caldo?" and i kept staring at her and shaking my head like an idiot. then she finally pointed to a stove. "Caldo?" .. "ohhh!!! Si!" later on when i was driving again it hit me... caldo... caliente... same thing.

"Basta" means "that's all." (or "enough")

Fortunately i DID recognize the price when she said it - "tres euro" - that was easy.

and today i didn't fall asleep behind the wheel. i'm on french time now. oui oui. my hotel room tonight takes the record for the smallest room i've ever stayed in (the one in Luzern a few months ago was probably the 2nd-smallest). but it's cheap compared to the others - less than 60 euros. plus 13.50 for parking. plus 6.50 for breakfast if i have it - and i probably will.

my green car has white scrapes behind both side mirrors.

tomorrow it's off to Barcelona (along the coast again)...

a bientot,
-moi.
(p.s. really enjoyed reading the replies to my email yesterday!!! no, i'm not buying anyone a plane ticket to come here. no, i will NOT go to Neuschwanstein Castle on this trip either. yes, i will go there on some future trip. no, i will NOT go to Vienna to buy any pastries to bring back. and yes, i'll have fun :-) )

Germany: The following were taken on the drive out of Munich towards Innsbruck: