December 21, 2010

Date Sent: Thu, December 23, 2010 10:00:05 PM
Subject: The land of many rainbows, a whole lot of falling water, a river crossing... and my own private BUTLER???

Howdy,

Tuesday (Dec 21) morning was the "real" start of this trip. I had a flight from
Johannesburg to Livingstone, Zambia. It was on time, and unfortunately I was
sitting on the wrong side of the plane during landing because I missed something
really spectacular on the other side. Not too big a deal because I would be
seeing it soon from the ground anyway.

The Zambian visa cost $50 USD. I made the mistake of getting a single-entry
visa, not even realizing that I NEEDED a multiple-entry visa. I think I was too
excited to be in Zambia and complete my new years resolution for 2010 to go to
"5 new countries" this year. The single-entry visa is $50, multiple-entry is
$80. I needed to enter Zambia twice, and the second time had to give another $50
-- so not too bad losing only $20 in this mistake...

This part of the trip was booked as a "package deal" -- it included flights
to/from Johannesburg-Livingstone, hotel at Livingstone, [a Zambezi river cruise
that I did not take], and flights to/from Johannesburg-Hoedspruit/Kruger
National Park and 3-day safari in Kruger.

The hotel that was included in this package deal was the "Royal Livingstone
Hotel", about 15-minutes walk from the largest falling body of water on the
planet, and really fit for royalty! I was greeted by the host, given a
complimentary arrival drink and cold towel to freshen up, and a complimentary
hand massage which I refused. After checking in, there was a golf-cart ride to
my room -- where I was greeted by my private butler.

Yes -- my private butler!

His name was Kennedy, and he would be available for anything I needed from
7am-9pm every day.

I AM NOT A "BUTLER PERSON"!!!

Anyway, after a quick unpacking and "dressing appropriately" (i.e. old "Pluris"
t-shirt and the pants I had bought for skydiving 9 years ago), I started walking
towards the Zambian side of the largest waterfalls in the world!! My butler told
me I should not wear my slippers, I should wear my hiking shoes instead, and
after they get wet from the waterfalls, he would dry them for me at no charge.

Victoria Falls ("Mosi-oa Tunya": "The smoke that thunders") are more than 1 mile
wide and more than 100 meters tall, across Zimbabwe and Zambian border on the
Zambezi river. One of the first viewpoints was on the Eastern Cataracts,
providing a side-view of the top of the falls. At another viewpoint, I saw some
people crossing the Zambezi river...

One of the "guides" over there -- his name was either Jay or Jerry and I'm still
not sure about that -- told me I should try it.

Ok I need to clarify something first -- these people I saw were not crossing the
river by boat, they were literally CROSSING the river -- on foot.

I SHOULD TRY IT??? NO THANK YOU! The river was very low but I could see the
current of the water!

Fine. I'll try it. It doesn't look that far anyway, just 100 feet or so and
back, it looks like fun. Ok. I'll try it.

We started crossing the river, there was another lady there and two guides for
two of us -- the way to cross was by making a chain, holding each other's hands
in a line for support, and side-stepping one step at a time across the river. At
first I was barefoot, then when the rocks got sharp Jay/Jerry gave me his
sandals to wear and he went barefoot... We went to what I thought was the end of
the river and I got mentally prepared to walk back across now...

hahahahahahahahaahah walk back across now!!! Yeah right.

Jay/Jerry said come with me, I'll take you to the falls, it's just a little way
from here... so I followed him, this time only the 3 of us... the 2nd guide had
walked back across to safety.

Well, as it turned out, what we crossed was only a TINY portion of the
Zambezi... only up to an island. Beyond the island is a lot more of the river
(of course -- the falls are over a mile wide)... and we started walking across
the river some more, Jay/Jerry assuring both of us tourists that the river is
fine, and December is the only time of the year when it is crossable. Ok fine,
we both trusted him and continued walking to the edge of the cliff, THROUGH THE
RIVER!!!

Some of the rocks were slippery, some were loose stones, some places had sand
that would sink when you stepped on it, and some places the water was up to 1
foot deep with a pretty strong current, and we had to cross those areas making a
daisy chain holding each others hands.

It was FUN!!! :-)

We came up to the first viewpoint, just above one of the smaller waterfalls and
that was amazing! Not just the view, but the fact that I had actually crossed a
river, risking my life to see it!

"Ok, we go back now?"
"No no -- there are 3 more viewpoints, we go to next one now!"

hmmm... this guy was leading both of us deeper and deeper into the river ... but
we followed him anyway. What amazed both of us was that Jay/Jerry knew exactly
where to put our foot down in the dangerous areas -- he would say things like
"Don't step on this rock, step on that one" -- and we would both follow him.
Later on I found out he does this trip at least once every day, sometimes two
times/day. He knew which rocks were more slippery or loose. And he knew where
not to go in the river -- where the water was deeper or had a stronger current.
By the end of the trip I was trusting him completely.

The other viewpoints were also great, and the whole roundtrip took 2 1/2 hours.
I also made another friend :-)

But after all that, I was too exhausted and went back to the hotel to relax for
the rest of the evening. (Walking across flowing water is tiring). My shoes did
not need to be dried by my butler.

The next day would be another country for a frontal view of the falls...

I'll write about that on some future date -- if I survive the safari :)

Dankie, and bye-bye,
-me.

Video